Day: October 3, 2015

Unchained – A quick lunch with the man

Looking forward to the chance to cook and relax this weekend, the man and I popped by Bishopthorpe road and the excellent M and K butchers. The quest for game complete (partridge and rabbit to be exact) we decided to drop in for a cup of tea at the much celebrated Puddin & Pie.

Despite hearing a lot about this Bishy road stalwart I had not yet taken the opportunity to sample from their menu. We had hardly stepped through the door when the man realised the meaning behind the name. Pie. Mash. Gravy.

wpid-imag0900.jpgWe didn’t really need persuading to stay for more than a pot of Yorkshire builders. I opted for the tempting lamb, chickpea and chorizo whilst the man plumped for the more traditional chicken and leek. There is a choice of mash, peas and gravy in all it’s combinations and two vegetarian options for committed herbivores.

Our waitress told us that the pies were all sourced from Toms Pies in Devon. The menu informs diners that additional ingredients are sourced nearby and the whole cafe has a comfortable feel of a place catering to a local community. Our meal was tasty, satisfying and just the right size for a day time meal; leaving you full but not overwhelmed. With prices around the £5.00 to £7.00 mark Puddin & Pie offer an excellent value lunch that will not dissapoint.

Gingerbread spice and all things nice….

In the last of this trinity of York Food and Drink festival updates I share my favourite spice mix for adding a touch of the medieval to your baking. Whilst it is fantastic applied to a modern gingerbread biscuit like the one mentioned in my Christmas 2014 History Girls blog, feel free to throw it into a traditional shortbread, apple pie or even rub all over your favourite roasting joint before popping it in the oven.wpid-wp-1437388669949.jpeg

1 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 tablepoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground mace or nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves

A fricassee of rabots – a modern take on a 17th century recipe.

This second rapid installment for ‘The new black’ grew from a current archive project at North Yorkshire County Council records office. Norton Conyers, near Ripon kindly donated their family documents, including a handwritten manuscript of household management and recipes dated around 1669.

demo picThe original receipt contains an elaborate dish of rabbit, veal, oysters and sweetbreads layered with pieces of bread and slow cooked in white wine and light ale. When invited to join Rachel Greenwood in presenting said recipe at York Food Festival, I decided to deconstruct it’s more accessible components and present these in a more manageable format. I have also included the instructions for frying the oysters and sweetbreads as we did at the demonstration.

Rabbit Fricassee
Serves 4 -6 with sides

Ingredients

450g – 500g diced rabbit off the bone.
Butter/lard
4 – 5 shallots or 1 large onion, peeled and sliced
4 – 5 preserved anchovies
Splash of dry white wine
Small glass of brown beer
One tablespoon Marigold vegetable bouillon powder
Small bunch of fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, oregano)
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg or mace
Salt and pepper
One loaf of day old bread, preferably sourdough

Method
Place a spoonful of fat in a large saucepan. Don’t automatically dismiss the use of lard; it is around 20% lower in saturated fat and in my opinion lends a lighter note when frying. Brown the rabbit in small batches and set aside.bay leaves

In the same pan sweat your sliced onion until translucent before adding the anchovies, nutmeg and bouillon. Return the rabbit and top with 200ml of water, the white wine and glass of brown beer. Tuck in your selection of herbs, bring to the boil and reduce to a simmer.

Simmer gently for around 30 – 40 minutes until the rabbit is cooked through. Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste.

The final dish results in tender rabbit and a light, flavourful broth that matches wonderfully with wet polenta and a bitter green salad. To serve in a traditional way place a slice of your slightly stale sourdough in each soup bowl and top with a generous spoonful of the meat and sauce. Provide a large green salad for guests to help themselves.

Garnish of oysters and sweetbreads

Two oysters/sweetbreads per person
Spelt flour
Pinch of mace or nutmeg
Eggs
Milk

Buy your oysters and sweetbreads on the day required so that they are as fresh as possible. Sweetbreads usually need to be ordered ahead of time but many local butchers can get you them with a little notice.

Method
Beat two eggs with 300ml of milk. Add enough spelt flour to make a thick batter and season with the nutmeg.

Place a spoonful of lard in a frying pan and heat until red hot. Dip the oysters/sweetbreads into the batter and drop into your frying pan a few at a time. It will only takes 30 seconds or so until for them to cook through and reach golden brown on the outside.

Serve alongside the rabbit and green salad.

The New Black – A breakfast to go a-viking.

Nothing is new except that which is forgotten

Marie Antoinette

After sharing my 9th century inspired stoup in the York Food and Drink Festival cookbook; a Viking inspired, mixed grain porridge seemed an appropriate ‘New Black’ post for early October.

wpid-imag0894_1.jpg
From top clockwise. Darker grains of the rye; pale white barley flakes and cream coloured rolled oats.

The inclusion of barley and rye flakes offers a deliciously nutty texture and fits with the typical diet of the time. Buttermilk gives a creamy texture with a sharp aftertaste that balances wonderfully with the natural sweetness of the topping.In addition to the honey, I have finished my porridge with nuts available to Vikings foraging in the 9th century. Dates and figs also work extremely well; as does a sprinkle of cinnamon, ground ginger or cardamom.

Barley, rye and oats each contain their own set of micronutrients along with heart healthy beta-glucen; making this a healthy and filling breakfast alternative for the winter months. The addition of native elderberries adds a boost of vitamin C and a dash of black blue colour. If you can’t find wild elder in your local hedgerow there is still time to replace them with the last of the picked over blackberries.

Ingredientswpid-imag0899.jpg

Serves 4

For the porridge

  • 1 cooking apple
  • Small handful of elderberries
  • 2 cups of barley flakes/rye flakes/oat flakes combined
  • 3 cups of water
  • Pinch of salt
  • 5 tablespoons of buttermilk

The topping

  • Combination of hazelnuts and walnuts
  • Honey

Peel and chop the apple. Rinse the elderberries to remove dirt and insects before pulling from the stalks with a fork. Any excess berries can then be frozen until required. Place the fruit and a drizzle of water in a small pan. Cook until the apple is soft but still whole and the elderberries have broken down.

wpid-imag0897_1.jpgRoughly chop the nuts and toast carefully in a dry, non-stick frying pan. Place on the table alongside a pot of honey and extra buttermilk.

Choose a pan with plenty of room. Combine your mixed grains and water before bringing to the boil.. Stir well, reduce the heat and simmer gently until cooked through. Stir regularly to create a thick, creamy texture. If the porridge is too solid for your liking add more water. Season with a pinch of salt.

Remove your porridge from the heat. First stir in the buttermilk and then the cooked fruit. Return to a gentle heat to ensure your porridge is piping hot. I like taking the steaming hot pan to the table so that guests can take ladlefuls of porridge before adding their own nuts and honey.